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Article
Publication date: 25 January 2008

Diana Germanova‐Krasteva and Hristo Petrov

This paper aims to define the dominating factors having influence on the quality of the seam by sewing of fine fabrics and their optimum values.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to define the dominating factors having influence on the quality of the seam by sewing of fine fabrics and their optimum values.

Design/methodology/approach

Ten factors defining a seam's quality are chosen on the base of literary research. There was a check for concurrence of specialists' opinions, as the Spearman's coefficient of concordance was determined. A designed experiment with variation of the first three of the arranged factors was made. Mathematical models for the tensile and the aesthetical properties of the seam were devised, and also optimization made.

Findings

A classification of the properties, defining seam's quality, is made. A cause‐effect diagram of Ishikawa with aiming parameter – quality of the seam – has been developed. On the basis of a survey the factors that have a great deal of influence on it are presented. Mathematical models for seam's strength, elongation and smoothness are produced by changing the following factors: straining of the upper thread, size of the needle and load on the pressing foot are worked out. Received models are optimized.

Research limitations/implications

The research was conducted using a sewing‐machine class 301. Received results and conclusions refer to seams made from base material – fabric from PES and sewing thread from 100 percent PE.

Practical implications

Optimum values have been established for the straining of the upper thread, the size of the needle and the load on the pressing foot by sewing of fabric from synthetic silk with mass applicable machines, needles, and sewing threads.

Originality/value

The research has been done in several directions: systemizing the seam's properties for evaluation of its quality and the factors defining it, inquiry into the significance of the different factors and implementation of a designed experiment. Consultations were made with a broad circle of specialists and these results are given in visual systems (schemes and graphs).

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 July 2012

Nikolay Nikolov, Diana Germanova‐Krasteva and Galya Kandzhikova

The purpose of this study is to develop a 3D geometric model of terry fabric, taking into consideration structural and geometrical characteristics of the fabric and of the yarns…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to develop a 3D geometric model of terry fabric, taking into consideration structural and geometrical characteristics of the fabric and of the yarns: weave, yarn counts, distances between yarns, weavings‐in, etc.

Design/methodology/approach

The structural and geometrical parameters of the fabric and of the yarns are obtained from the pattern by measuring, calculations and through geometric drawings. The model is worked out by means of SolidWorks and is directly compatible for processing using ANSYS. The proposed construction is checked for admission and for matching with the original structure.

Findings

A 3D computational model, which can be used for strength‐deformation simulation and analysis of terry fabrics, has been developed.

Originality/value

The study developed a 3D geometric model of a complex woven structure consisting of an additional pile warp system by means of non‐specialized CAD software. It can be used for strength‐deformation simulation and analysis.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Diana Stoyanova Germanova‐Krasteva, Galya Dimitrova Kandzhikova and Atanas Grigorov Bochev

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of some structural characteristics of terry fabrics on the rate of sorption.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of some structural characteristics of terry fabrics on the rate of sorption.

Design/methodology/approach

Fabrics are produced by changing the weft density and the pile height. An experimental stand for dynamic measurement of water sorption is created. The quantities of water absorbed by the fabric over time are determined. The sorption rates are calculated and discussed.

Findings

The dynamics of the sorption process are assessed through the sorption curves presented. The sorption rates for the main sorption stages, as well the average rate for weft and warp direction, are calculated. Results are statistically worked out applying ANOVA. Appropriate conclusions about the influence of the investigated parameters on sorption process are made.

Originality/value

The originality/value of this paper is: determination of the rates of water sorption for the particular time intervals and the average rates for the entire test period; and assessment of the infuence of the loop height and weft density on the sorption rates.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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